On Friday I was taken to dinner at a nice seafood restaurant on the Delaware, and I realized that I have never really sat and watched the river; it was quite a bit more interesting than I would have thought—barges and dinner cruises kept crossing the river.
On Saturday, I woke up early and went to 30th St. Station and caught a train to . . . Manhattan!! When I was living in Philly, I was able to visit the city very frequently—about once every other month in 2009 (less often before that). Unfortunately, though, this was my first trip there since December. I miss so many things about living in the Philadelphia area, but I’ll have to add “easy access to New York/Broadway” to the list.
Anyway, after I arrived at Penn Station, I took the 1 and N to 59th and walked through the already exceedingly hot and humid morning up 5th Avenue to get to the Frick Collection. On my way, I happened upon the Cupcake Stop truck, which is a big truck that drives around the city and stops at various locations to sell cupcakes. Philly has a similar truck (you can read about it in my post from 6/13), but I like the New York one better, because their cakes are easier to eat standing up than Philly’s are. I read on Twitter that the cupcake truck was supposed to be in SoHo on Saturday, and when I asked at the window (you knew I was going to go for a cupcake!) why the truck was on the Upper East Side, the guy replied that they have two trucks now.
After eating my Nutella fudge cupcake, I went into the Frick, which is on 70th. The museum holds the collection of Henry Clay Frick, one of the robber barons who made a fortune in coke in the late 19th century. In his will, Frick stipulated that his mansion be opened to the public as a museum, and in in 1935, after he and his wife died, the museum opened. I enjoyed the fact that the museum’s building is itself artistically/architecturally significant; the Frick had fireplaces, wood paneling, books in the library, and a large indoor courtyard with a fountain that made the museum seem much more comfortable and less institutional than other museums with big galleries like the Met or Philadelphia Museum of Art.
Some of the rooms in the museum, like the huge West Gallery, were designed with the intention of becoming museum galleries, and the the library only had shelves up to waist-height so that pictures could hang above them. I only had about 2.5 hours to spend in the museum, but I got to see everything (even though I was a bit rushed near the end) and listened to most of the audio tour. Most of the paintings were from the late 18th and 19th centuries, and I hadn’t heard of many of the artists. I did see one Degas, a few Vermeers and Rembrandts, and a Monet, though. In addition, the collection included about a dozen of the medieval religious paintings that I like. Most surprising, though, was seeing “The Wool Winder” by Jean-Baptiste Greuze, which was used on the cover of a children’s book that I enjoyed when I was in elementary school.

The Frick Collection
After the museum, I walked down to the N stop and passed a street–I think 60th ish–with street vendors selling gyros, tacos, etc. Definitely not something I would expect a couple of blocks from the Plaza, but so it goes. I took the N down to 50th and walked (slowly–it was over 90 degrees out and humid by this time) to the Longacre Theater on W. 48th. I arrived at about 1:40 (the doors opened at 2 for a 2:30 curtain), but I just decided to hang out in the air conditioned lobby (decorated with pink chandeliers to compliment the disco balls and purple lights outside) instead of walking about, because I knew that if I did that, I would have to stand outside in line waiting for the doors to open. I encountered many a confused senior citizen who thought that the show started at 2 while waiting, and I found out that Kelsey Grammer, who plays Georges, would not be in the afternoon’s performance and that his understudy would take his part. I was very disappointed by this, but I was just excited to see the show.

La Cage at the Longacre Theatre!!
The doors finally opened, and I went in to find my seat. Then the overture started (played by musicians in boxes above the stage instead of an orchestra pit). The show was brilliant and full of sparkles, flying wigs, and beautiful music. Grammer’s understudy was actually very good. I’ve heard Grammer sing, and he can carry a tune but doesn’t have a very strong voice, but his understudy very definitely was a trained singer, and after I heard him, I was less disappointed about not seeing Frasier Crane onstage. The actor who won the Tony this year for the role of Albin was still in the show, and I was very impressed with his performance; he was very over-the-top as a crying, screaming, and giggling diva. And at the end of the first act, when Georges told him that he wouldn’t be able to meet Jean-Michele’s fiance and parents and Albin stormed onstage at the club to sing “I Am What I Am,” I think my heart skipped a beat. My dance coach and I have talked about thinking of Broadway to help with my presentation on compulsory dances, and I think that I really need to channel La Cage into my Viennese Waltz.
The show ended at about 5:15, and I walked to catch the 1 uptown to 125th (and while on the train broke the MTA/Seinfeld code of silence to ask in what year a guy wearing a t-shirt from the school from which I transferred in Philly graduated), because I wanted to do some neighborhood-exploring in Harlem. I have read about gentrification in Harlem this year, and on my accidental visit to 125th and Morningside in my sophomore year, I was surprised to see new stores going in. I didn’t have much time to explore on this visit, because I wanted to get to the Upper West Side before I had to go back to Penn Station, but I was able to spend about half an hour walking down 125th/Martin Luther King Boulevard. The businesses in the blocks of the street down which I walked have largely not been touched (at least, not obviously touched) by gentrification. I saw landromats, cheap takeout Chinese and fried chicken restaurants, a McDonald’s, a couple of drug stores, and a storefront Pentecostal church. I also walked by the General Grant high-rise housing projects, which are across the street from one of the few stores that I could identify as being a recent addition to the neighborhood: an upscale grocery store with exposed brick side walls and chocolate-covered strawberries for $3 each. And while most of the people I saw walking around on 125th were black or Hispanic, I saw about a dozen white people waiting for the subway uptown and downtown, which makes me wonder if, as in Mt. Airy in Philly, the business street I walked down mostly draws minority clientele but more white people live on the residential side streets–a question to explore on another visit.

W. 125th near Broadway from the el platform
When I decided that I really needed to get back to the subway (which, as it happens, is elevated starting at 125th), I found that MTA was doing repairs on the downtown platform, so I had to take the 1 north to 137th and then cross and take the train downtown. Unfortunately, the subway car I took north didn’t have air conditioning. Fortunately, though, I only had to ride one stop, and it was the only un-air conditioned car I encountered all day.
I got off at Lincoln Center and walked toward 66th and Columbus for . . . the Magnolia Bakery. I discovered the bakery when I went to see “Aida” at the Met in October and enjoyed it, and this was my first time returning since that visit. And I realize now that I use the word “discover” very loosely–when I went in October, people asked me if I visited before I had a chance to tell them, and people in Philly know about the bakery as well (I think it was featured on a television show, but I’m not sure). Anyway, after going to Magnolia and finding a very tiny sandwich shop on Columbus to gobble a sandwich, I jumped back on the 1 and rode to Penn Station to catch my train back down to the Illadelph.

Magnolia Bakery